Danier Does it Again with the Design Challenge

In marketing, they say it always starts with the kids. Four years ago Danier initiated a design challenge with Ryerson University's School of Fashion that would allow third year students to demonstrate their fashion chops. In return for creating an original women's leather garment design, a handful of students had a chance at seeing their garment put into production for Danier stores, a paid summer internship and cold hard cash.

At that time the concept of designer collaborations was still relatively new. But sure enough, a series of successful collabs with notable names from Canada's fashion industry quickly followed - Winnipeg-born, London-based Mark Fast, Toronto's Greta Constantine and Philip Sparks and stylist George Antonopoulos. (That's me wearing Greta Constantine's SKIN for Danier on the left; George Antonopoulos' OBJECT line on the right.)

Just as school returned to session this month, I stopped by Ryerson to see this year's design challenge winner revealed and catch up with Olga Koel, Danier's executive vice president and chief merchandising officer.

"Getting students to create something commercially viable was our initial goal, but it has evolved to focus more on the creativity and innovation," she remarked. "We want to encourage these students creativity, help them understand leather."

Oh, there is creativity alright. This year's winner demonstrated some sick design skills. The fact that young Ostwald Au-Yeung was unavailable for comment or a congratulatory handshake speaks volumes: he was finishing a design internship in Hong Kong. 

I have a hunch Ostwald is not long for this land. As we see often in Canada, talent like this either gets snapped up quickly or itches for bigger experiences than they can enjoy here. And with talent like this, I would rather see him rubbing elbows with another next big thing. 

World domination, Ostwald, it's yours for the making.

Location, Location, Location

It's the week before the fashion mega-showcase known as LG Fashion Week beauty by L'Oreal, and fashion crowds are taking in Rogue Fashion Week. The various venues say as much about a designer as the clothes themselves. Kicking off the week at the Burroughs Building, Sparks' works has a similar kind of historic charm - given his interest in heritage tailoring it's not a surprise. The former F. C. Burroughes Furniture Company built the original 639 Queen Street West as its flagship retail department store in 1907. I like to think Philip is inspired by the building.

Later in the week we hit the flip side. The almost-complete Trump Tower at Bay and Adelaide provided a great backdrop for the modern flourish of Mark Fast, Mikhael Kale and Arthur Mendonca, and the pre-opening timeslot was edgy enough to warrant men in hard hats as ushers. 

Paul Hardy's romantic collection and meticulous detailing were on point at the National Ballet School - sorry, bad pun - and I found the bowling shoes a fun disruption. The Greta & Ezra Constantine show closed the week at Audi with a slick show like a shiny new hot rod.

It's not easy hosting a runway show off site, but these are not new kids on the design block. These are some of our top designers, the ones about whom you will say, "I knew them when..."  And in reviewing the collections, I thought it more fun to see how they looked on Twitter to the people who watch all the shows, no matter where they are:

Philip Sparks

Myth busting evening.  Backstage at Philip Sparks and the models were eating PIZZA.  

Yes - greasy slabs of pizza pie. How bloody refreshing. (@SarahEWaldock)

Lusting after that soft maple print cocktail dress from Philip Sparks tonight. 

Dresses more fun than light fixtures. (@k_cleveland)

Philip Sparks Fall 2011, photos by Jenna Marie Wakani

 

Mark Fast & Mikhael Kale 

Don't remember this Mark Fast dress from his London show but dammmn do I want it. (@xoxSNP)

So the rich socialites of Toronto definitely came out to play today at 

the Mark Fast / Mikael Kale shows (@marcpiercey)

Just left the Mark Fast/ Mikhael Kale show. Incredible collections and
some fierce models. Love the attitude!  (@ExposedBlog)

Mark Fast Fall 2011, photo by Felix Wong

Mikhael Kale Fall 2011, photo by Felix Wong

Mark Fast Fall 2011, photo by Irem Harnak

Mark Fast Fall 2011, photo by Felix Wong

Arthur Mendonca

Thank God Arthur Mendonca is back designing in Canada. First exit - 

black slick trench - is brilliant. (@LisaTant)

Saw #Arthur Mendonca's show tonight. Exquisite & sophisticated! 

Tea lovers - It was like a fine #Da Hong Pao Oolong (@theteastylist)

 

Arthur Mendonca 2011, photo by Dean Sanderson

Arthur Mendonca Fall 2011, photo by Felix Wong

Paul Hardy

Right on trend: footwear hitting the ground: shoes at Paul Hardy show at National Ballet school was bowling shoes. Even with evening wear. (@DerickChetty)

From Trump Hotel nouveau riche to National Ballet's Quaker-style hall. 

Bond girls to school girls. Fast/Kale to Paul Hardy #chooseyourfetish (@amyverner)

Paul Hardy, photo by Owen E. McLeod

Greta Constantine

If you play Adele at a fashion show, I will forgive you for shining that light 

right in my eyes with every exit. (@moshamosha)

Also, for fall/winter 2011, what's with Canadians showing chest? 

First Kale, then Mendoza, and now shirtless dudes at Ezra (@pliving)

My all white outfit choice has me inadvertantly matching Audis festooning 

dealership venue of Greta Constantine. Fashion faux pas or fun? (@suzanne_boyd)

 

Greta Constantine, photo by Owen E. McLeod

Greta Constantine, photo by Owen E. McLeod

Greta Constantine, photo by Owen E. McLeod